If you’re looking for a guitar killswitch and thinking “cool… but which one do I actually buy?”, I made this quick guide to help choose the right switch for you. I’m going to keep it simple: a few fast questions about how you want the switch to behave, whether you want to drill (or not), and whether you want an LED.
One expectation I always set up front: killswitches are meant for high-gain use. If you’re mostly a clean-channel player, you’ll usually hear some pop/crackle when you hit the switch on clean tones, and that’s just part of the deal. Under gain, that artifact is much less noticeable—so that’s where killswitches really shine.
If you just want the quick answer, start here with these 3 simple questions. Pick the option that matches you and you’ll know exactly which switch to buy.
Good news: the killswitch itself works with or without the LED, so this is just about whether the light turns on.
Your guitar already has power (9V / 18V / 24V) from active pickups or a preamp → you can usually share that existing power for the LED.
9V is the most common.
18V/24V is totally doable—it just needs a larger resistor. If you’re running 18V or 24V, leave me a note at checkout and I’ll include the correct resistor free of charge.
Your guitar doesn’t have a power supply (passive), or you want a dedicated power source just for the LED → grab one of my Installation Kits:
9V installation kit (classic battery setup)
CR2032 installation kit (compact + no LED resistor needed)
Hope this helped you choose the right killswitch for your guitar. If you want a little more clarity on any step you just answered, scroll down and I’ll break each one down a bit further in detail.
Also, just a reminder that every Iron Age killswitch is backed by a full one-year warranty, so you’re covered 100% if anything ever turns out to be defective.
This is just about what happens when you activate the switch.
Momentary (stutter while pressed)
Press it and the signal cuts instantly. Let go and your signal comes right back. If you want rhythmic chops, machine-gun stutters, or fast “tap” control, this is the feel you want. This includes the Standard 16mm momentary and the Mini, both of which are the most common types of switches we offer.
Latching (mute until switched back)
Flip it on and the guitar stays muted until you flip it back. This is the “mute switch” style choice for silent tuning, between-song muting, or stepping away from your rig. The latching option is silver finish only, and it comes in LED and non-LED.
This is one of the biggest considerations for most purchases.
Drop-in, no drilling (Mini)
If you want the least permanent route, the Mini drops into an existing potentiometer hole. It’s the easiest way to get a killswitch without adding a new hole, and it’s the safe pick if resale value matters. The Mini is an LED model only, but the light is optional if you want to leave it unplugged.
Standard install (16mm hole)
If you want classic placement and a dedicated killswitch location, go with a Standard 16mm switch. This is the traditional mod route and allows more flexibility on where you want to place it. You'll need a steady hand and some proper tools so if drilling makes you nervous, I genuinely recommend professional installation. A clean install is worth it.
If you want to DIY, I also offer Forstner-style bits that make this job a lot cleaner and less stressful. A Forstner bit cuts a crisp, round, flat-bottomed hole with more control, so it’s less likely to wander, tear up the finish, or leave you with a messy edge like a spade bit or oversized standard drill bit can. It’s the easiest way to get a clean 16mm hole that looks like it belongs there.
All of our killswitches cut signal without a battery, but you do need a power source if you want the LED to light up.
No LED (simple and stealthy)
If you want the cleanest install with the fewest moving pieces, choose non-LED.
LED switch, run it dark
If you like the finish of the LED switch but do not want the light, you can leave the LED wires disconnected and out of the way. The killswitch will still works normally.
LED switch, lit up
If you want the LED on, you're going to need a battery of some kind. Check out the options available below (there are a few).
Power options are flexible for these LEDs but if you do not care about the LED lighting up, skip this section.
Share existing power (common with active setups)
If your guitar already has a battery for active pickups or a preamp, you can usually share that power for the LED. Just make sure your LED+ wire on your killswitch has its resistor installed before you go on to connected it to the power source - very important!
9V is the most common.
18V/24V works too. It just needs a larger resistor, and I can include it free if you leave an order note at checkout.
Add dedicated power (best for passive guitars, or if you want the LED independent)
If your guitar is passive (usually a mono jack) or you want the LED to have its own power source, I offer two Installation Kits: 9V (classic) and CR2032 (compact and simple).
Each kit comes with a stereo output jack and a micro switch, plus your choice of battery setup. The stereo jack gives you the “automatic” option, meaning the LED can turn on when you plug in a cable. The micro switch gives you the “manual” option, so you can turn the LED on and off whenever you want. In other words, every kit is built to let you choose which style you prefer.
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Alex Rodea
Author
Alex is a former U.S. Marine avionics technician turned founder of Iron Age Guitar Accessories, a one-man shop building boutique picks, knobs, and kill-switches since 2015. He applies systems thinking, precision machining, and insights from thousands of shipped orders and customer reviews to write practical guides on tone, materials, and design for serious players.