How To Install A Guitar Killswitch

**A closer look of any of these diagrams can be found >Here<

Please check your connections (such as with alligator clips) before soldering.

Contents:

• LED Killswitch Wire Layout
• LED Model Installation, for Mono Jack Guitars
• LED Model Installation, for Stereo Jack Guitars
• Non-LED Model Installation
• Additional Killswitch Information

All Iron Age LED Kill-Switches are configured in this manner.
Even if the wire color is different,
the position in relation to the "LED color indicator" dot
will be the same.

This configuration allows the most control as to when your LED is on/off using a micro-switch.

This can conserve more battery life over time,
but the killswitch will also work 100%
even if the LED is turned off.

This is the diagram to use if you intend to use some sort of toggle switch to operate the LED, and you don't have or want to use a stereo jack.

If you purchased an installation kit, both installation options will be available to you.

Here's a couple of guides on how to install the killswitch & a toggle for the LED. This set-up can also work with active pickups, it's just adding in an extra toggle switch for the light.

Please note that a single grey (bigger) resistor is now being sent out instead of 2 small ones. Only 1 grey resistor is needed.

Here's a 2nd video showing a similar method of using a toggle for the LED.

This one made by Mark of Guitar Guts on his green frankenstrat. 

This configuration will automatically light up the LED when an instrument cable is plugged in & turn it off when unplugged.

Most guitars with active pickups will have a stereo jack & battery already installed which can also be shared to power the LED.

If you purchased an installation kit, a stereo jack, battery, and connector will be included to wire this configuration. The battery can be stored in most electronics cavities & there's no need to route a new compartment.

Big thanks to CS Guitars for this very informative video!
This video shows how to wire the killswitch & LED so the light turns on when a cable is plugged in (using a stereo jack)

Their wiring interpretation can also be found Here

Our Non-LED kill-switch models work with any guitar,
and are super easy to install!

Simply connect 1 of the wires to the sleeve(ground) at the jack,
and the other wire to the tip/hot lug.

The two most common jack types are shown & labeled for your reference.

Another thanks goes out to Charles Caswell of Berried Alive for this quick video!
This is for installing a non-LED switch by replacing a potentiometer/knob.

Here's a 2nd video which also shows a non-LED installation, as well as some insights on the LED models.

This video created by Derek at Big D Guitars. (Thank you!)

*For frequently asked questions, please visit the Killswitch FAQ Page

-Please test your connections  (such as with alligator clips) before drilling or soldering to make sure everything is working 100%

- Drilling: It's recommended that you drill from the front/top of the guitar (into the cavity), and use painters tape to ensure a clean cut & protect the finish around the mounting hole.

-18 volt guitar setups will require approximately 680 ohms of resistance to tame the voltage for the LED. Please leave a note if you have this set-up & an extra-large resistor will be included with your order at no additional cost.

-The mounting diameter for ALL Iron Age kill-switches is 16mm

-Each LED kill-switch comes with a single grey resistor. It has replaced the 2 small blue ones seen in the 1st installation video.

-All Iron Age Killswitches come with a 360 day, full year warranty. If your switch becomes faulty from here to there, it can be replaced at no additional. Please contact if this is the case

-For more info on how these switches work, please see the About Killswitches page.

-To learn more about guitar jacks, please check the Mono vs Stereo blog.