Guitar Kill Switch Frequently Asked Questions
For Iron Age guitar kill switch installation instructions & resources >see our installation page<
For general information on killswitches & artists who have been known to use them >see our general about page<
Q: Do these switches also produce noise (crackles/pops)?
A: While these switches do not affect the guitar signal itself, most if not all kill-switches will produce a pop or crackle when activated. (Even the arcade style ones like you see on some signature guitars)
It's just the physics of snapping the signal to ground, however it's mostly encountered when playing through a clean channel. By adding some dirt, whether it be overdrive, distortion, or fuzz, you are clipping the signal anyways. So any crackles or pops from pressing the switch simply blend in & are greatly diminished. Because of this aspect, these switches are intended for high gain applications only.
Q: What skills are required to install one of these switches? Can anyone do it?
A: While we recommend having a professional do it as a safeguard, anyone can install their own switch.
All it takes is a steady hand to operate a drill & basic soldering skills. The wiring itself comes into focus with out installation guides and once you grasp the concept, only takes a couple minutes to install.
Q: Can these switches be installed into an 18V or 24V mod system?
A: Yes! These switches can be installed in 18V or 24V modded systems with the proper LED resistor. We have a larger resistor with ample heat dissipation required for either voltage and can include them free of charge.
Just let us know that your switch is for an 18V or 24V system during checkout- there's a comment box on the slide-out cart labeled "Order Notes". This note won't show on your receipt but we'll see it on the backend for your order.
As far as installation goes, it's the same process as installing with a 9V system as shown in the diagrams. The only difference is instead of the smaller resistor, use the larger one provided - no need to use both.
Q: What's the rating on the resistors that come with the LED killswitch models?
A: We include two 150-ohm resistors (1 watt) with each kit - one for installation and one extra as a spare. You only need to use one resistor for the installation.
If you're looking to source your own resistors, we recommend using resistors in the 150-360 ohm range. For better heat dissipation, choose at least a 1/2 watt resistor or higher. Any less resistance than 150 ohms can cause excessive heat to build up, while too much resistance can begin to dim the LED.
Q: What diameter hole do I need to install one of your switches?
A: For your convenience, all of our switches have a 16mm installation diameter.
We also stock exact-diameter drill bits too at the fraction of the price.
Some forstner-style bits can easily go above 10 bucks to upwards of 50 a piece!
Q: What mounting depth do I need for different types of kill switches?
A: If you have a thinner guitar (like Ibanez S for example), this is something worth considering. The mounting depth (distance needed behind the control plate/pickguard) varies depending on the type of kill switch you choose:
- Mini versions – require 0.75 inches (about 19mm) of depth clearance
- Non-LED versions – need about 0.85 inches (roughly 22mm) of depth clearance
- LED and latching versions – require 1 inch (around 25mm) of depth clearance
These clearances offer an ample amount of space for the wires to bend comfortably. In tighter spaces, the wires can be bent further at your own discretion, though we recommend avoiding sharp bends that could stress the connections.
Make sure to measure the available space in your guitar to ensure the right fit before installing any of these switches.
Q: How long will the switches last?
A: Our switches are industrial grade & built to take a beating.
They're rated for a full 500,000 presses so they're ready for any amount of abuse you throw at them.
The LEDs are rated for 40,000 hours, which equals 4.5 years of continuous use without ever being turned off - You're gonna need more than a few batteries to push that limit!
Q: Can these be installed on a bass guitar?
A: Yes these can function on a bass guitar, BUT they sound best on distorted channels.
Abruptly clipping a smooth sound-wave (i.e. Clean channel) can produce an unwanted click or pop when the switch is activated. This can be diminished with a bit of overdrive/distortion/fuzz & is imperceptible with higher gain tones.
Q: Does the LED turn on/off when the button is pressed?
A: No, sorry the LED does not flash intermittently when the button is pressed.
Q: How long will the battery last for the light?
A: For both the 9v battery & the 2032 "Slim Power Pack", you can expect at least 100 hours of continuous use.
Please note that the kill-switch will still work even if the battery runs out, or is left disconnected during install.
Also, if you have a micro-switch or another means of turning the LED on or off, you will be able to conserve power & increase longevity by deciding when to use the light.
Q: I installed one of your switches, but it's working in reverse. I can only hear my guitar when I press the button!
A: If this is the case, you likely installed the switch in "Series" instead of "Parallel". That means you connected both killswitch wires to a single wire on your guitar. No big deal, simply reconfigure the killswitch wires so 1 touches ground, and the other touches the pickup's live/power wire & you will be fine.
Q: Can these replace my volume/tone knob?
A: Yes but it will require a different approach since the hole for a potentiometer is usually no larger than 10mm.
Our switches are all 16mm in diameter but you won't be able to simply drill a bigger hole. You can however accomplish this feat by using a file to enlarge the mounting hole instead. Here's a video that can help you accomplish just that: How To Enlarge A Potentiometer Hole
Q: Do the Non-LED models require a battery to operate?
A: No, only the LED models use a battery which is for the light, and is optional.
That means you can use an LED model without hooking up the light & it will still function.
Q: Is there any difference between the various finishes?
A: Nope. Other than looks, the black, stainless steel, & vintage gold finishes will all perform the same
Q: What's the difference between "Normally Open" & "Normally Closed" switches?
A: The difference lies in how they are installed & their mechanism of action.
A normally closed switch (NC) is installed in series and works by simply cutting the pickup's power or ground in two.
When you go to press the button, it creates an "open" or gap in the wire & so the electricity can no longer pass through the switch.
Our switches however,
are all normally open (NO) and are installed in parallel, not series.
This means that 1 wire hooks up to ground, and the other to power which creates a bridge (with a gap, open).
When you press the button, it closes the switch (completing the bridge) and shorts the power to ground as it's being fed in, thus "killing" the power.
More guitar kill switch FAQs coming soon,
feel free to message us if you have any other questions that aren't listed here.
Thanks!
See more guitar kill switch frequently asked questions here
