Realistic cadence. I work support in ~1-hour morning blocks. Typical reply time is 1–2 business days; during preorders/holidays it can take up to 5. Either way, you get a real answer—not a template.
This page is the single place where we say exactly how Iron Age is built, what we make in-house, what we partner on, and what we guarantee. If you’re comparing options or just landed here from our socials, here’s the promise: you’re not just buying a trinket; you’re getting a tool with a bit of ritual baked in. Our pieces are meant to nudge you to pick up the guitar and create.
We use machines for consistency and set the final feel by hand. We keep batches small so the work stays honest. When something goes sideways—shipping, wiring, wear—we look at the facts and fix it when it’s the fair call. This is the work, and this is what we stand behind.
Precision-Crafted Guitar Picks: CNC Backbone, Human Edge
“Precision-crafted” means repeatability is the foundation; playfeel is the promise. Here's what goes into it:
Profile (CNC Router + CO₂ Laser)
We start with clean, chatter-free blanks. A tight profile means less corrective sanding, truer geometry, and faster flow without losing detail. I obsess over the post-profile surface because a smooth blank compounds across every batch. Small tweaks in design, big payoff.
CNC handles most shape profiling. The CO₂ laser joins the toolkit for tight kerf cuts and tiny features. It lets me cut blanks with crisp edges, dial micro-notches, and add patterns the mill can’t reach. It’s also how I cut the side notches on acrylic Spearhead picks and set up precise registration for later finishing.
CNC/Laser Give:
-
Shape fidelity and repeatable thickness
-
Clean sidewalls that hold spec in finishing
-
Reliable consistency on small runs
-
Tighter tolerances for small features
-
Intricate engravings for enhanced design and customization options
Bevel & Edge (Hand)
A machine can only bevel to fixed angles like 90° or 120° without extensive 3d modeling, and usually only on one side (unless you build a complicated jig). That also isn’t a finished pick.
I cut the pick shoulders on a disc sander, rough the bevel and taper on a belt sander, then move through progressive grits to sculpt the edge by eye, touch, and sound.
The last passes set the edge attack—sharper for articulation, softer for fluid leads. Faces stay matte for grip and control. Bevels can be brought up to a near-mirror so they glide faster across the string. Surface is tuned for purpose.
Crafting Sequence:
-
Disc sander to define general geometry
-
Belt sander to rough the bevel, as well as tapers
-
Hand sanding through various grits to blend transitions
-
Final refinements by hand or polishing
Felt Outcomes: Grip, Glide, Bite
Grip sits at the top of the value chain. It changes how confidently you attack the string & how well the pick stays put. The Gladiator line stacks textile engravings, grip holes, and matte faces to lock your hold on stage or at home.
Attack is how the edge meets the string—glassy and quick, slightly draggy like a bow, or gritty with bite. Materials shape that feel and sound.
From my bench: UHMWPE runs low-drag even before a fine polish. Ultem takes a high polish and speaks bright & crisp. Faux ivory is usually finished satin/matte, which adds a slight drag without getting sticky. I set bevel and surface to the material and the intent so each pick feels deliberate, not generic.
Small-Run Ethic (Batch Size)
I build in small runs on purpose. It keeps the hand fresh and the finish honest. After too many of the same profile, burn out rears its head; short batches prevent that.
Small runs also move improvements faster. Less rework. Fewer picks sit on the shelf. If a tweak makes a pick glide cleaner or a grip land better, it goes into the next micro-batch.
QC benefits too: thickness stays on target, engravings stay precise, and materials that reveal scratches easily get the extra step-sanding they require. Creative freedom stays intact. The result is consistent where it should be and human where it counts.
Build & Provenance: What’s In-House, Hybrid, & Sourced
Guitar Picks — in-house.
We cut and profile blanks here—CNC router for clean geometry, CO₂ laser for tight features (think Spearhead side notches). Short runs keep the hand focused and tolerances tight.
The outcome: consistent guitar picks every time, edges that are perfectly ambidextrous, picks that feel ready the second they hit the string.
Guitar Knobs — hybrid.
We source heavy, knurled metal bases for weight, grip, and a repeatable fit—and we paint those bases in-house. The tops are ours: CNC-carved, hand-finished, polished, then bonded to the base.
Every guitar knob gets a human pass before it ships—quick checks for paint, insert seating, dot clarity, and centered alignment—so the turn feels smooth and the profile reads clean from any angle.
Before a knob leaves the shop, we run a quick QC:
-
Paint uniformity; clean tapered edge
-
Mounting insert seated and secure
-
Resin glow dots free of bubbles or defects
-
Top centered to base & adhered correctly
Guitar Killswitches — partnered since 2015.
Same trusted source because they’re steady, pragmatic, and good with small runs and occasional specials. Our guitar kill switches arrive pre-wired; we inspect each one, add the correct resistors, include heat-shrinks for a clean install, and verify action and continuity.
Support stays in-house. We handle killswitch troubleshooting ourselves—verify the circuit, offer testing suggestions, solve the problem. Most issues are install-related; when it’s the part, we replace it. No scripts, no run around.
Note: Nothing here is dropshipped. Orders ship from our shop after inspection—partnered parts included.
How It’s Made: Process Insights
For the curious. Three build videos with full write-ups—start to finish, no mystery steps. Watch the process, see the choices, and judge the work in real time.
TX Rattler Picks
We go from a flat sheet with a pattern on a screen to a pick that holds light in its lines. Points are tapered with intent, slim bevels feel inevitable, and a waxed surface steadies the grip so the look and the bite finally match.
>See How How The Texas Rattler Picks Are Made<
Macassar Ebony Spearheads
We start with a raw board and end with a fast, articulate tool. Shoulders seat in the hand, the edge takes a polish against a grit-and-gloss face, and the wood stays quick under the fingers—not shiny for a camera, just ready to speak clean. Another one we’re glad to put our name on.
>See How How The Ebony Spearhead Picks Are Made<
Wooden Pick Tray
We move from nested toolpaths to a tray you reach for without thinking. Corners ease, grain catches the light, and an oil–wax finish invites use—a calm landing spot between takes.
>See How How The Wooden Pick Trays Are Made<
The Oath: Service, Warranty, Responsibility
We stand behind what we ship. Killswitches: if one fails within 365 days, we replace it. Knobs: we stand behind fit, finish, and alignment. Picks: we stand behind workmanship and playfeel out of the box.
Lost-in-transit happens. Technically the carrier takes over at handoff; practically I stay involved. Give deliveries 2–3 business days past the projected date—weekends can stall deliveries and sometimes the drivers scan early.
At +7 days with no movement, I review the timeline and use judgment. If it reads like a lost cause, I make it right, including a reship when that’s warranted.
Fulfillment note. If I see two orders to the same name and address before they ship, I’ll combine them into one package and refund any extra shipping.
What I promise:
-
Accountability. I don’t hide behind policies when something goes sideways. I make it right on the merits.
-
Honesty. Straight talk on what’s possible and what isn’t.
-
Consistency. Same standard whether it’s a first order or a repeat customer.
How I handle support:
-
Root-cause, not canned replies. I diagnose the actual problem and give a clear path forward—wiring check, swap, or another concrete step.
-
Methodical by training. USMC avionics/electronics background: verify the circuit, test the path, solve the problem. If it’s nuanced, I troubleshoot for a solution. Most issues are install-related; when it’s the part, I send a new unit.
-
Technically, my job ends at the post office counter. In practice, it ends when you’re playing what you ordered. If I miss that mark, hold me to it—point me back here and I’ll review the case and make it right where that’s justified.
Contact & Support: Real Help, No Scripts
The support link lives in the footer on every page (labeled "Contact"), on your invoice, and on the product card in your box. Prefer to type it: Support@IronAgeAccessories.com (please no solicitations).
I have many roles in the day-to-day but only 1 pair of hands. Still, the bench comes first so orders ship right and on time—that’s why support runs in focused blocks: about an hour most mornings (sometimes a second pass in the evening), and every other day when the workload is full.
Typical replies land in 1–2 business days. During pre-orders, holidays, or content pushes it can stretch to 3–5. I often work weekends to catch up on builds and projects, but I typically don’t answer support emails then—those get handled in the next weekday block. I keep an eye on FB/IG messages too, but email is the priority line.
To help me help you faster, include:
-
Order number—available in email receipt, package receipt, or give the name used to place the order
- Order changes (pre-ship): I can swap/downgrade and refund the difference. For upgrades, I can cancel the original, but you’ll need to place a new order—I can’t charge additional funds on your behalf.
-
Clear photos if relevant (wiring/fit for switches; model/serial for hardware)
-
A concise description of what you tried or what you’re seeing.
- For killswitch issues, include a clear cavity/jack photo—I’ll verify the circuit and either walk you to a quick fix or ship a fresh one.
Also in Codex | General
The Sword & The Laurel: What Our Mark Demands
A sword ringed by laurels: will and earned peace in the palm of your hand. This is the creed behind our mark—and how it can ignite your next session. Begin again, on purpose...
Black Fingertips From Playing Guitar? What’s Really Going On
Noticed your fingertips turning black after playing guitar? From string chemistry to fretboard dyes and even the environment you play in, here’s what really causes it — and how to keep your hands (and gear) cleaner.
Killswitch LED & Voltage Compatibility Guide
Wondering how to safely power an LED killswitch in your guitar? This guide breaks down exactly which batteries and resistors work best for each setup, based on years of real-world testing—so you can upgrade confidently and avoid costly mistakes...
The 3 Best Engraved Guitar Picks to Personalize Your Playing Experience
Engraved guitar picks add both style and function, offering extra grip and a personal touch with custom initials, logos, or messages. Whether you're looking for a unique gift or a pick that stands out, check out our top choices and grab your first engraving for free with code...
Guitar Jack Not Working? Here's A Few Easy Steps To Fix Crackles & Pops
Guitar jack not working? Maybe you’re getting no sound, or the occasional loud crackle? If so, you’ve come to the right place. The guitar jack plays a crucial role in...
Mono vs Stereo Jacks: Key Differences & How to Wire Them
Here's something we're often asked about when it comes to guitar electronics. On the subject of guitar jacks, mono or stereo, which one is better? What are their uses, and is there a difference in sound?
