By Alex Rodea July 31, 2025
At Iron Age Guitar Accessories, we often get questions about powering LED killswitches and what battery setups are compatible. While adding an illuminated switch can be a great upgrade, making sure your LED is matched to your guitar’s power system is crucial for both safety and performance. In this article, we want to lay out everything you need to know in a clear, accessible way—so you’ll know exactly what works and what doesn’t. We’ll be sharing our hands-on testing results, resistor recommendations, and some common pitfalls to avoid.
Most importantly, always use the correct inline resistor when powering the LED. Connecting an LED directly to a battery can damage or burn it out, depending on the power source and LED type. Let’s dive into the details and make sure your next LED install is smooth and trouble-free.

If you’re considering a standalone power source for your LED killswitch, a CR2032 battery pack is one of the most compact options available. Its smaller size can make installation easier in guitars where cavity space is limited, especially compared with a full-size 9V battery.

Like our other LED power setups, CR2032 installations should use the supplied inline resistor. This helps protect the LED and provides consistent operation across different LED colors and switch designs.
In our experience, CR2032 packs provide long battery life comparable to a 9V setup while taking up considerably less space inside the control cavity. This makes them a useful option when you want a dedicated LED power source without adding the bulk of another 9V battery.
Every Iron Age LED killswitch includes the appropriate resistor for standard CR2032 and 9V installations, so no additional resistor purchase is necessary.
>CR2032 Installation Kits For Killswitches Available Here<
A common question we get is whether you can share your guitar’s existing 9V battery—used for active pickups or a preamp—with the LED in your killswitch. The good news is yes, you absolutely can share the same 9V power source. However, it’s important to understand that while your active electronics are built to handle 9V, LEDs are not; connecting a 9V battery directly to an LED will instantly burn it out. That’s where a resistor comes in.

Although 150 ohms isn’t the official textbook value for this voltage and LED combination, we’ve chosen it through hands-on testing because it strikes the right balance: it provides strong LED illumination while keeping heat generation at a safe, manageable level. In our experience, this setup works reliably and doesn’t cause any issues with excess heat or premature LED failure.
For your convenience, every Iron Age LED killswitch comes with a 150Ω 1-watt resistor included, plus a spare and the necessary heat shrinks, so you’ll have everything you need for a safe and easy installation. This approach ensures you get a vibrant LED and long-lasting performance, all while protecting your gear.
Some guitarists opt for 18V or even 24V mods, usually by wiring two or more 9V batteries in series to power their active pickups or preamps. These modifications are popular for increasing headroom and dynamic range, giving your instrument a bit more punch and clarity. When it comes to adding an LED killswitch to these higher-output systems, things get a bit trickier.

In our own testing, we wanted to see what would happen outside the usual recommendations, so we tried running two 150Ω resistors in series. The result was a lot of heat—enough to melt heat shrink tubing and pose a safety risk. To find a better solution, we tested a large Allen Bradley vintage 750Ω 1-watt resistor, and it performed sufficiently well: after 20 minutes of continuous use, it was only slightly warm and kept the LED shining bright. Based on these results, we recommend using at least a 750Ω resistor rated for 1 watt or higher for both 18V and 24V systems to properly manage heat and protect your components.
It’s worth noting that while these resistor values are under the typical recommended spec, they provide the brightest possible LED output without compromising safety in our experience. We’re also in the process of sourcing modern 820Ω 1-watt resistors, which will add an extra margin of safety while still delivering strong brightness. If you have an 18V or 24V setup, just let us know in your order notes and we’ll include one of these resistors free of charge.

Like with 9V systems, you can share the power source between your active electronics and the LED, but the higher voltage means the wiring and resistor choice become even more critical.
Sometimes, integrating the LED with these higher-voltage power setups can be more involved, so a separate CR2032 battery pack can be a simpler alternative. Its compact size makes it easy to use as a dedicated LED power source while keeping the LED circuit separate from the guitar’s 18V or 24V electronics. Be sure to use the supplied inline resistor with the CR2032 pack.
If you have any questions or need guidance, we’re always here to help you make the right choice for your rig.
| Power Source | Official Recommended Resistor (Value / Wattage) | Iron Age Used Resistor (Value / Wattage) | Iron Age Notes & Compatibility |
|---|---|---|---|
| CR2032 (3V) | 100–150Ω, 1/4W | 150Ω, 1W | Compact setup, supplied with every LED switch. |
| 9V | 330–470Ω, 1/4W–1/2W | 150Ω, 1W | Brightest output, stays cool; supplied with every LED switch. |
| 18V | 820–1kΩ, 1/4W–1/2W | 750Ω, 1W (Allen Bradley vintage) or 820Ω, 1W (modern, coming soon) | Tested safe and only slightly warm after extended use. |
| 24V | 1.2kΩ, 1/4W–1/2W | 750Ω, 1W (Allen Bradley vintage) or 820Ω, 1W (modern, coming soon) | Tested safe and only slightly warmer after extended use. |
Our resistor recommendations are based on hands-on testing and real-world use across our LED killswitch lineup. Because LED characteristics can vary by color and switch design, using the supplied resistor provides a consistent margin of protection while maintaining useful LED brightness.
As a quick reminder, here are a few of the most common questions and troubleshooting tips we share with our customers:
If you need a larger 820Ω resistor for your 18V or 24V system, just let us know in the “Order Notes” section at checkout. While this note won’t appear on your receipt, rest assured we see it on our end and will include the correct resistor with your order.
Remember, all Iron Age switches are covered by our 365-day warranty—a standard we set, and while others may try to copy, they can’t match our real-world experience, data, or commitment to your satisfaction and support. Learn more about our work, support, and ethos here: The Oath.
If you have any questions or need personalized advice, just drop us a message. We’re here to help you make your next killswitch install smooth, safe, and reliable.
If you’re bouncing between installs, troubleshooting, and LED power options, this quick hub keeps everything connected in one place.
| Resource | What you’ll find there |
|---|---|
| Shop Kill-Switches | Current Iron Age models, options, and ordering info. |
| How To Install | Your core install page for standard wiring and installation videos. |
| F.A.Q. #1 | Most common install questions and fast fixes. |
| F.A.Q. #2 | Less common scenarios, compatibility notes, and deeper troubleshooting. |
| EMG/Fluence Install | The universal, beginner-friendly “jack-first” guide for active pickup anxiety. |
| LED Voltage Guide | Full resistor/voltage breakdown for 9V, 18V, 24V, and more. |
| Killswitch Basics | A simple overview of what a killswitch is, what it does, and how players use it. |
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© 2026 Iron Age Guitar Accessories.
Est 2015.
Alex Rodea
Author
Alex is a former U.S. Marine avionics technician turned founder of Iron Age Guitar Accessories, a one-man shop building boutique picks, knobs, and kill-switches since 2015. He applies systems thinking, precision machining, and insights from thousands of shipped orders and customer reviews to write practical guides on tone, materials, and design for serious players.