Installation Kits & Drill Bits

Make Your Killswitch Install Seamless
Everything You Might Need In One Place

• Overview
• What’s Included/Available
• Compatibility & When To Use

• A killswitch install is easy to understand, but it falls apart fast if your guitar is missing a stereo jack, a power source for the LED, or the right size hole for the switch. That’s exactly what these install options are for.

  On this page you’ll find four separate add-ons, each sold individually so you only buy what your guitar actually needs:

  • A 9 V Install Kit for standard battery setups

  • A CR2032 “Slim” Install Kit for tight cavities

  • A 16 mm Forstner Drill Bit for clean, correctly sized switch holes

  • A wood rasp/file for carefully enlarging an existing pot hole instead of drilling a new one

  Resistors and heatshrink normally ship with Iron Age LED killswitches, not with these kits. If you are running a standard 9 V setup, you don’t need to request anything extra — those parts are already included with the switch.
  
  If you plan to run 18V or 24V, or you want additional resistors for 9V experiments or backup, mention that in the order notes and I’ll include the appropriate values with your killswitch.

  If you are unsure which kit or tools fit your situation, you can compare the scenarios in the Compatibility tab.

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  9V Install Kit

  This kit is for full-size 9V battery setups where you have enough cavity space and want a traditional rectangular battery.

  It includes:

  • 9V battery

  • 9V battery clip to tie into your circuit

  • I/O mini switch for manual LED or power control

  • Stereo output jack for jack-switched power and auto LED behavior

  Each kit gives you both the I/O mini switch and the stereo jack, so you can decide how you want the system to behave in your guitar.
  
  You can wire the LED or power through the I/O switch for manual control, through the stereo jack for automatic on/off with the cable, or choose just one of those elements if you prefer to keep things simpler.

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  CR2032 “Slim” Install Kit

  This kit is for tight cavities where a full 9V block is hard to fit. It gives you LED power in a much smaller footprint.

  It includes:

  • CR2032 coin cell holder

  • Two CR2032 coin cells

  • I/O mini switch for manual LED or power control

  • Stereo output jack for auto on/off behavior when a cable is inserted

  Just like the 9V kit, you get both an I/O mini switch and a stereo jack, and you are free to use either or both depending on how you want your LED or power to behave.
  
  Some players prefer only jack-switched operation, others like a dedicated on/off switch, and some combine both for maximum control.

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  16 mm Forstner Drill Bit

  This is a dedicated 16 mm Forstner bit sized to match the full-size Iron Age killswitches.

  A Forstner bit is ideal for guitar work because it:

  • Cuts a clean, flat-bottomed hole

  • Reduces tear-out and chipping on the guitar top compared to spade bits

  • Gives you precise control over the diameter so the switch seats properly without a sloppy, oversized opening

  If you are drilling a fresh location for a switch, this is the easiest way to get a clean, correctly sized hole in one controlled pass.

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  Wood Rasp / File

  The wood rasp/file is for situations where you want to enlarge an existing potentiometer hole instead of drilling a brand-new one.

  Basic use:

  • Work slowly and evenly around the inside edge of the hole, rather than grinding out one side

  • Test-fit the killswitch often as you go so you do not overshoot the size

  • Let the file do the cutting and avoid aggressive twisting that could chip the finish

  This is especially useful when you are replacing a tone or volume pot with a full-size 16 mm killswitch and want to keep the original control location with minimal extra tooling.

  
  

• When You’ll Likely Want a Kit

  You’ll probably want one of these kits if:

  • You’re installing an LED killswitch and your guitar currently has a mono jack, but you want:

    • The LED to turn on automatically when a cable is plugged in (stereo jack needed), or

    • A manual on/off for the LED or power (I/O mini switch needed)

  • Your guitar is fully passive and has no existing battery:

    • Choose the 9V kit if you have enough cavity space for a standard 9V battery

    • Choose the CR2032 Slim kit if space is tight and you want a low-profile power option

  Both kits give you an I/O mini switch and a stereo jack, so you can decide whether you want jack-switched behavior, a dedicated on/off switch, or both.

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  When You Might NOT Need a Kit

  You may not need a kit if:

  • Your guitar already has:

    • A stereo output jack, and

    • An onboard 9V, 18V, or 24V system for active pickups or a preamp

  • And you’re comfortable tapping that existing jack and power using:

    • The How To Install page

    • The EMG/Fluence Install guide for active systems

    • The LED Voltage Guide for resistor sizing and examples

  In that case, you might only want:

  • The 16 mm Forstner bit (for a new hole), or

  • The wood rasp/file (to carefully enlarge an existing pot hole)

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  Non-LED and Mini Killswitch Setups

  • Non-LED killswitches
    These usually do not require any kit, since they only need two connections at the jack (tip and sleeve).
    A kit is optional, but the Forstner bit or rasp can still be handy if you’re creating or enlarging a mounting hole.

  • Mini LED killswitches
    Mini switches drop into existing pot holes, so you don’t need drilling tools for the switch itself.
    One of the kits can still be useful if:

    • Your guitar is passive and needs a new power source for the LED, or

    • You want the LED to behave like an active system with auto on/off via stereo jack and/or a dedicated I/O switch.